Yom Kippur

Yesterday was Yom Kippur-the Day of Atonement in the Jewish faith. I had previous plans to go to Petra this weekend, but my boss said that Yom Kippur in Jerusalem is something that needs to be experienced; even if it is only once. About a week before the holiday, we all got e-mails from the government (well really it was really just my boss, who then forwarded them to us) telling us what cities and check points were shut down. Basically, if you didn’t live in Jerusalem (even if you worked here and had a pass and everything), you weren’t coming in. There was also a declaration that no cars could be driven on the Jewish half of Jerusalem.

My friend Brit and I decided that we were going to go to the Western Wall and then to the uber-orthodox neighborhood of Meah Sharim. If you haven’t heard of Meah Sharim, it is a VERY orthodox neighborhood in Jerusalem that has decided to basically stay in the 18^th century. So they shy away from cars and technology and basically everything they want is within their neighborhood.

The Urban Dictionary eloquently defines it as:

A extremely religious city in Jerusalem that is known for being very conservative. It is filled with Haredi Jews that will woop your ass if you break a Jewish rule or expose too much skin.

When people come back saying that they were literally stoned for having shorts or a tee shirt on (Mom), this is probably where they were. So, Brit and I dressed up in our Yum Kippur best to try to look as much like an orthodox Jew as possible. Although, my boss rightfully stated that we weren’t trying to trick anyone into thinking we were orthodox, we were just trying not to offend anyone.

After the Western Wall (which was really cool, but can someone tell me why so many Jews sleep there over night during Shabbat and high holy days?), Brit and I headed to Meah Sharim. At first, it was really cool. Right near the entrance of the neighborhood were all of these orthodox Jewish kids playing with each other. This was a new site for us due to the fact that we live on the Muslim half of Jerusalem. We hardly get to see the Jewish community.

We then started walking through the neighborhood. There were so many children playing in the streets, men walking to services, and women pushing children in carriages. It was amazing to see all of these people in their orthodox dress! It really was like going back in time. My Church History self was loving it!

However, once we got about a block in, there was a noticeable change in the air. All of a sudden, I felt SO uncomfortable and slightly in danger. All of these people were staring at us and there were LARGE signs saying how unwelcome outsiders were (in large red lettering no less…I’m not joking. Red letters are REALLY scary!). It was the first time since I’ve been here that I have really felt scared. I was seriously terrified.

People had told us that to get out of Meah Sharim, you just walk 5 blocks in whatever direction. False. IF that is true, those were the longest 5 blocks of my life. 3 blocks in, I was literally praying that the end of Meah Sharim would come so that I could just get out. I haven’t wanted something so badly in a LONG time.

Well, eventually we got out (thankfully without getting hurt or having to talk to anyone-including each other. Brit and I both felt the same thing and not a word passed between us until we were a safe distance away. There was about an hour of silence) then we had to walk all the way back to the Muslim half of Jerusalem so that we could catch a bus and get home. My feet were black from walking so much!

Even though I was a little terrified, I wouldn’t trade the experience for anything. I’m really glad I did it and I will remember this Yom Kippur for the rest of my life. However, I’m never going there again. Mission accomplished scary red signs!